Off The Beaten Track Of South Africa

Port St Johns

At the mouth of the Umzimvubu River in Eastern Cape, Port St Johns is an idyllic little town with a dominant black population and a relaxed atmosphere. Artists and craftspeople have been escaping the cities to set up studios and workshops in the area, some of which you can visit. This is about as close as you’ll come to the new rural South Africa. There’s tropical vegetation, dramatic cliffs, great beaches and a good range of backpacker-style accommodation. Silaka Nature Reserve, a small coastal reserve just south of Port St Johns, is a hang-out for otter and white-breasted cormorant. There are also tidal rock pools and an estuary where aloes grow almost down to the water.

Port St Johns is accessible by bus from Durban via either Lusikisiki (the shortest way) or Umtata.